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The Soho Waiters' Race is one of the capital's most gloriously kooky annual events. Here's our run-down of the most enjoyable race you're going to watch all year.
Go on then, what's this all about? You know the London Marathon? Well this is absolutely nothing like that. The Soho Waiters' Race sees dozens of service staff dash around Soho while balancing sundry items on a tray. For the winner: eternal glory and a cash prize. For everyone else: smashed glass, shame and a stitch*.
What's the route? Competitors start outside the French House pub, up Dean Street, round Soho Square, down Greek Street, across Romilly Street and back across the finish line at the French House Pub — dodging startled tourists as they go.
What are the rules? You've got to be a waiter/waitress. You must complete the course brandishing a tray, a napkin, a half bottle of champagne and a champagne glass. (It's actually prosecco these days, austerity Britain and all that.) You can only hold the tray with one hand. You can steady items on the tray for no more than three paces. You must get all items over the finish line intact. You no longer have to wear a starched white jacket/bowtie — although the rules state you must look 'fantastic'. For some waiters this means going topless (see above).
How long has this been going on for? The first London waiters' race was actually run around an athletics track in Chiswick in 1949 (here's the video to prove it). This itself was inspired by Paris' la course de garçons de cafe, dating way back to 1914. By 1955, someone had twigged the London race would be infinitely more fun to do in the middle of Soho — and so the Soho's Waiters' Race was conceived. By some accounts, competitors took it pretty seriously. Catford locals thought they were seeing things when a couple of waiters went out training for the race in their white jackets. Some 70 waiters took part in that 1955 Soho dash. The winner was one S. Crisevolo of The Ivy.
Does it make one hell of a mess? Yup — broken glass and spilt fizz everywhere — especially as the waiters speed up approaching the finish line. Any who finish with their bottle still intact tend to spray the contents all over the place, too. It's a throwback to the gritty days of Soho — a few precious moments of mayhem before everyone goes back to their iPhones.
When is the 2024 Soho Waiters' Race? Sunday 21 July, at 3.30pm. The race always starts from the French House on Dean Street — a boozer that's busy at the best of times. Don't fret though, in recent years we've managed to grab a bottle of the Cidre Breton, and perch on the other side of the road for a decent view of the start/finish line. Other parts of the route are less crowded. You could always sprawl out in Soho Square with your own bottle of fizz.
What do I do once the fun's all over? The Waiters' Race is part of an entire day of good old fashioned summertime fun known as the Soho Village Fete, which also includes small joys like snail racing, a tug of war between two teams from the emergency services, and a spaghetti eating contest.
If I like this, I might also like... Any number of London's other barmy rituals which involve booze and weird s**t, including Swearing on the Horns and Twelfth Night. The Lambeth Country Show is probably a bit of you, too.
*A stitch from running too fast, not, hopefully, from the broken glass
