You'll Have A (Mirror) Ball At Cafe De Paris' Disco 54

Disco 54, Cafe de Paris ★★★★☆

You'll Have A (Mirror) Ball At Cafe De Paris' Disco 54 Disco 54, Cafe de Paris 4

We feel love, we feel love, we feel love, we feel love, we feel love for Cafe de Paris. Right now, the Piccadilly fun palace, first frequented by the creme-de-la-creme of saucy 1920s socialites, has regenerated into Disco 54, and is laced with more Donna Summer hits and mirror balls than a 45th wedding anniversary bash.

Tables are shoved to the side, creating a round, in which fire is flung and swallowed; mirror balls swung and straddled; and dancers wearing few clothes end up wearing fewer. Though the disco concept is more crowbarred in than the venue's previous haunting beautiful spectacle, there's not a duff track or act all night — they don't skimp on the pyrotechnic glitter explosions, either.

Hen parties looking for a classy outing will lap this up (we know that, because they were). But the real litmus test, perhaps, is our parents: bona fide children of the '70s, who we've dragged along tonight. They have a (disco) ball — the cast skilfully involves the audience in the cabaret, but not to the point you'll be cowering under the tablecloth. We were still talking the next day, anyway.

The food, alas, is too authentically '70s: canapes that taste freshly-purchased from Iceland, and a steak so leathery, we give up on it. Dine elsewhere, then treat yourself to a raspberry-infused Nile Rodgers cocktail. Naturally, it comes served in a mirror ball.

Disco 54 at Cafe de Paris, Fridays and Saturdays, dinner and show £35pp, entry only (no table) £10pp

Last Updated 22 February 2019