Food Review: Prawn Supremacy

Zheng ★★★★☆

Food Review: Prawn Supremacy Zheng 4

Zheng's a newcomer to South Kensington, but it already feels thoroughly SW3. The atmosphere's calm. The background music, hushed. The decor, tastefully restrained. The Malaysian menu’s not nearly as demure as the vibe, though.

Every dish we order is richer, hotter or just better than we expected: several of them scattered with chillis, but full of vivid, deep flavours a long way off the high-heat monotone of a lesser curryhouse. The beef rendang's falling-apart meat, bound in a coconut sauce so thick it's almost grainy. Green beans with minced chicken sounds simple on the menu, but they nearly eclipse everything else with the combined crunch of fried bean and dried chilli.

And our order-each-time-you-go dish would be easy to overlook among the starters: the prawn fritters are large, meaty dumplings with a delicate batter shell. This virtuoso way with a fritter comes at a price, with even starters clocking in at about £9 upwards. But the lower reaches of the wine list are reasonable and if you're looking to splash out on a beef rendang, you get a lot of brilliance for your buck here.

Zheng, 4 Sydney Street, SW3 6PP.

Last Updated 16 August 2017