Food Review: The Localist, Clerkenwell

The Localist, Clerkenwell ★★★☆☆

By Lydia Manch Last edited 17 months ago
Food Review: The Localist, Clerkenwell The Localist, Clerkenwell 3

New to Clerkenwell, The Localist is delivering usual-suspect pub stuff (fish and chips, pasta, calamari), the majority of it done well. There’s nothing small about the burrata small plate, in size or richness: the best of our choices, the cream-stuffed cheese comes on a heap of citrus-drizzled broad beans, singing with freshness. A fritto misto's low on crunch and doesn't taste of much beyond batter, but the rest of our dishes are uncontroversially nice — no big flourishes and no big disappointments.

Don't miss the burrata not-that-small plate. Photo: Lydia Manch

Clerkenwell isn't great at middle-ground work lunches — plenty of takeaway, al desko options, and a scattering of restaurants too formal or pricey to be an obvious spontaneous, escape-from-the-office choice. The Localist's filling the gap nicely, with enough of a buzz to serve up that escapist Friday-lunchtime feeling, still quiet and sedate enough to talk work with clients or colleagues. It's not serving up many surprises, but this is a solid, gastropub-style addition to an area that could do with a few more options like it.

The Localist, 38 St John Street, EC1M 4DL.

Last Updated 07 August 2017