20" Pizza Comes To Marylebone
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Friendly staff, low-frills space, short menu that we want to order everything from: there's nothing that remarkable about this Homeslice, in the grand scheme of Homeslices.
Marylebone's the newest venue in their string of six — with branches opening at a rate that means you'll soon be able to bounce around London living exclusively on Homeslice pizza. We don't begrudge them that expansionist twinkle in their eye; this is one of the chains we'd be happy to have land in our hood.
If you're not familiar with Homeslice, they work on a simple but winning formula. Their pizza comes in two sizes: by the slice, or table-eclipsing. By the slice is £4 each and comes from a shorter selection; 20" pizzas are £20, and toppings can be split half-half.
Same same at their newest opening. And the minor gripes are the same as well. We'd love to see more than one tomato-based pizza on their roster. Every other option's a tomato-less base of garlic oil or corn cream or pumpkin sauce or tahini.
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We never thought of ourselves as pizza purists, but we find ourselves longing for wider repping for the classics here. Take away the tomato and the cheese and you're left with a magnificent, maverick loaded carb, nearer to a Turkish pide than a pizza in spirit — and tending towards a creamy richness that halts you before you can do real justice to your half of a 20" monster.
There's no denying they're brilliant though. We split ours between the salami, rocket and parmesan (tomato base) and the aubergine, spinach and harissa (cauliflower cheese base). And we reckon this is how to win at Homeslice: go half classic, half left-field. Wash it down with their good-value wine by the carafe. And be pleasantly surprised at just how easy it is to make a table-covering amount of pizza disappear.
Homeslice, 50 James Street, W1U 1HB.
Last Updated 04 March 2019