If you're looking for a family-friendly attraction that used to host subterranean sex romps and pagan rituals, then Buckinghamshire's Hellfire Caves tick every box.
I recently bumped into Benjamin Franklin deep beneath the Chilterns.
There goes the Founding Father on the right, accompanied by Sir Francis Dashwood, the man who had the caves excavated in the 1750s. The facsimile statesmen may simply be inspecting the caves, or they may be on their way to a Stygian orgy. Dodgy stuff definitely went on in these tunnels, though nobody is really sure quite what.
Today, the caves are a superbly atmospheric visitor attraction, extending a quarter of a kilometre under the chalk of the Chilterns. They offer a spooky but family-friendly experience, with plenty of dark corners to explore and information panels to read. But rewind 250 years and who knows what you might have stumbled upon down here...
Saucy parties
Sir Francis Dashwood was a wealthy aristocrat, politician and notorious party animal who lived in the nearby West Wycombe mansion. It was he who had the caves excavated. Why? Officially, this was an act of local philanthropy. Dashwood paid farm labourers to dig out the chalk, which was then used to build a new road connecting West Wycombe to High Wycombe, at a time when poor harvests had left many villagers without work.
But the dark knight had a hidden agenda. Dashwood used the newly excavated tunnels as a meeting place for his infamous club, the Order of the Friars of St Francis of Wycombe, later dubbed the Hellfire Club.
We don't know exactly what they got up to in the caves, but fragmented accounts speak of pagan rituals, drunken orgies and Bacchanalian behaviour. Ben Franklin was an occasional visitor, though there's no evidence he personally got up to any naughtiness.
There's little evidence, indeed, about anything that happened in the caves. The Hellfire Club was, after all, a secret society whose members included some of the most powerful men in Georgian Britain. The women involved are thought to have been willing courtesans, but we can't be sure something darker wasn't going on down here. It's a lingering misgiving as I explore these shadowy caverns with my family.
Spooky corners
The interpretation boards, perhaps wisely, focus more on the lives of the workers who dug these tunnels, as well as the Dashwood family estate, and the supposed supernatural happenings in the caves. We're told that at least two spirits are thought to haunt the space, and learn that the 'Most Haunted' TV show spent a productive night down here in the Noughties.
Whether you believe in ghosts or not, the caves have an otherworldly feel. They are entirely manmade, so twist and turn with mysterious purpose. Occasionally, you'll be met with a choice of ways, but everything connects up in the end:
Occasionally, the narrow passages open out into voluminous caverns, most impressively the 'Banqueting Hall', where Dashwood and Co. enjoyed the pleasures of Dionysius and Venus. The barred niches around this room are thought to have been used as spaces where the lusty could enjoy some privacy.
Elsewhere, we encounter a water feature dubbed the 'River Styx', though candidly it's more of a puddle than a river. No need to pay the ferryman a silver coin; you could cartwheel across it.
The caves take roughly 45 minutes to explore in full, perhaps a bit longer if you read every interpretation board. The site also comes with a small cafe and gift shop housed in this suitably ominous forecourt:
You could, however, easily spend the day in the area. Above the caves stands the hexagonal mausoleum of the Dashwood family — a fortress-like hexagon that dominates the hillside. The views are majestic, and you won't find a better spot for watching the ubiquitous red kites hovering and swooping over the Chilterns.
Next-door is St Lawrence's church, also built to the whims of Dashwood. Its famous tower supports a huge golden ball, which was another reputed meeting place for the Hellfire Club. With his secret caves, dodgy dealings and golden meeting rooms, Dashwood would make a fine Bond Villain.
The mausoleum hill and surrounding lands are criss-crossed with footpaths and enjoyable walking routes. Meanwhile, at the foot of the hill, is West Wycombe Park and Hall, Dashwood's old pile now in the care of the National Trust (though family members still live on site). Note that it's only open for three hours a day.
Nearby, and beside the main car park, is the lovely Walled Garden cafe, which is well geared up for families, with playground and softplay.
Hellfire Caves and surrounding attractions are in the village of West Wycombe, a short cab ride (or hour's walk) from West Wycombe station. Several car parks can be found in the area, including a large one next to the Walled Garden at HP14 3AP
