Snapshots Of Britain On A Plate, At GBR
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As guests at the Dukes bar in Mayfair sip strong martinis while channeling Connery and Moore, something else quintessentially British is going on in the restaurant below.
GBR's new menu is a celebration of the UK via a medley of dishes sourced from local butchers, fisherman and farmers across the country — hardly novel, but in this case, executed nicely.
Diners can choose to make their way through the menu — including Barbary duck with salt baked turnips, and red gunard heaped with white crab — in two ways: as mains or smaller, sharing plates. The latter allows you to sample six or so ample-sized plates (ranging from £6-£11) and experience just what native food can be.
Most things on the docket should impress any foreigner looking to scoff at British fare: the posh haggis Scotch egg may now be a gastropub staple, but this one's a soft and spicy, oozing delight. The heritage beets (has to be heritage these days) are perhaps lacking a bit of pizzazz, but the eel served on a disc of a 'pig's head' terrine is little short of sublime.
Not everything at GBR is about tradition. Our hankering for a gin martini is brushed aside with the refreshing drinks list, in which manhattans are cross-bred with mint juleps, and sazeracs beefed up with a triumvirate of whisky, brandy and rum. Bond might not favour such potions over his classic, but they add edge to a competently classic menu.
GBR Restaurant at Dukes, 37-38 St James's Place, St. James's, SW1A 1NS
Last Updated 25 February 2019