Review: New Brunch Menu, In An Old, New York Restaurant, In A New Location... In London
Since 1977, Joe Allen has been giving London a taste of New York glitz. It's ironic then, that earlier this year, this suave thespian of a joint was ousted from its Exeter Street lodgings by none other than Robert De Niro.
The show must go on, and the same staging of exposed brick, Broadway bills, and upright tinkling away in the corner, has been scooched a few hundred yards to Burleigh Street. To go with the new/old Joe Allen, there's a new brunch menu, consisting of all the old classics. Everything from the steak and eggs, to waffles plastered with ricotta and blackberry compote scream 'comfort food'. There are no gimmicky twists — just the kind of nosh you'd expect to be served at the original Joe Allen in 1960s NYC. In some ways, eating here is like watching the latest Tarantino movie — reassuringly predictable, and with a great soundtrack to boot.
All that said, the star of the show is a citrusy blast of a cocktail — so new, that when we ask what it's called, the bartenders have to hastily make up a name. It's a Good Morning Sunshine, and you should order one.
Joe Allen, 2 Burleigh Street, WC2E 7PX
Last Updated 10 November 2017