Food Review: Skylon

Skylon ★★★★★

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Food Review: Skylon Skylon 5

In an outrageously lovely spot on South Bank, the views alone would keep Skylon constantly busy — a panoramic glimpse across the Thames, windows stretching ceiling to knee-high the length of the restaurant...

But arriving on one of this summer's brightest days, we find out they've dropped curtains on the panorama to protect diners from the reflected glare off the river. Making this a rare chance to see what the restaurant’s really like, when you're not being irrationally prejudiced by the views. Is it more than just a pretty space?

It seems: yeah, from the vibe — formal, but friendly enough to stop short of feeling stuffy — through to recently-arrived Executive Chef Kim Woodward's menu; classic dishes, brightened with interesting touches.

Seafood dishes including smoked salmon cannelloni and a scallop ceviche are stand-out, and the weirdly compelling hit of the starter of pressed watermelon, Shimeji mushrooms and tiny, yellow tomatoes. This is fine dining, and that's thoroughly reflected in the prices. But there's not a dull note anywhere in our dinner, and desserts almost match the views in the iconic stakes. It turns out with the curtains drawn, Skylon can still dazzle.

Skylon, Royal Festival Hall, SE1 8XX.

Last Updated 16 August 2017