One of the things we’ve learned about fashion shows is that they never start on time. The à la disposition show started a fashionable 40 minutes late but there was plenty to look at among the spectators who sported an impressive array of headgear, oversize sunglasses and experimental coiffure.
ALD’s theme for A/W11 is The Utopian Aviary, described by the press release as ‘a rigid momentum freed from pivotal aviary restraints’ and ‘expressive opulence’. The clothes were certainly opulent; layered silks, contrasting colours, shimmering taffetas and some gorgeous sea-green velvet along with windblown hair was offset by some models with startling red contact lenses which put us in mind of 28 Days Later.
There seemed to be a nod towards older influences with collars a little like Elizabethan ruffs, a lovely 18th century style tailcoat and multi-layered skirts though there were some simple and wearable pieces amongst the more elaborate ones. The finale was a deep red silk dress remarkable for its structured Dracula-esque collar.
à la disposition was launched in 2005 by husband and wife designer team Lynda Cohen Kinne and Daniel Kinne.