Food Review: The Localist, Clerkenwell
New to Clerkenwell, The Localist is delivering usual-suspect pub stuff (fish and chips, pasta, calamari), the majority of it done well. There’s nothing small about the burrata small plate, in size or richness: the best of our choices, the cream-stuffed cheese comes on a heap of citrus-drizzled broad beans, singing with freshness. A fritto misto's low on crunch and doesn't taste of much beyond batter, but the rest of our dishes are uncontroversially nice — no big flourishes and no big disappointments.
Clerkenwell isn't great at middle-ground work lunches — plenty of takeaway, al desko options, and a scattering of restaurants too formal or pricey to be an obvious spontaneous, escape-from-the-office choice. The Localist's filling the gap nicely, with enough of a buzz to serve up that escapist Friday-lunchtime feeling, still quiet and sedate enough to talk work with clients or colleagues. It's not serving up many surprises, but this is a solid, gastropub-style addition to an area that could do with a few more options like it.
The Localist, 38 St John Street, EC1M 4DL.
Last Updated 07 August 2017