Food Review: Sun's Out, Rum's Out

Foxlow Soho ★★★★☆

Food Review: Sun's Out, Rum's Out Foxlow Soho 4

Foxlow has an MO — being the go-to bistro in wealthy residential neighbourhoods like Balham and Chiswick (the steaks here usually come with a side of buggies). So this Hawksmoor spin-off turning up in Soho is a surprise, but a thoroughly good one.

Doesn't matter which branch you pick when it comes to the food: the menu's a confident combination of steakhouse classics — like the parmesan-crusted mac'n'cheese and our perfectly-rare hanger steak — and more interesting flourishes. Don't miss the crackers topped with anchovies and goat's butter, or the fried chicken sandwich, a behemoth even by Foxlow's generous standards.

But the grown-up feel sets the Soho newcomer apart from the rest, more date spot than family-centric. This makes it the right setting to tackle their strong cocktail menu — the Old Cuban's rum, lime and champagne is the ideal summery foil for the sun-flooded dining room.

Foxlow, 8-10 Lower James Street, W1F 9EL.

Last Updated 24 July 2017