In search of London’s best sandwich since sliced bread
Sandwichist - Superior sandwiches at Fernandez and Wells, Soho
The Mediterranean economies are sinking faster than a leaky lead-lined lilo. Greece is crippled and rumour has it that Spain and Italy won’t be far behind. So in support of them we’re reviewing the fearsomely good sandwiches that you’ll find at Fernandez and Wells which all have a Mediterranean vibe.
Fernandez and Wells sounds more like a design agency than a sandwich shop. And given their talent for making astonishingly good sandwiches they’d probably give Wolf Ollins a run for their money if you asked them for a logo as a side order. And like a design agency they are laser focused on simplicity. They embrace the fundamental essence of the sandwich - top class fillings stuffed between awesome bread - in a way that fuses form and function with dazzling results.
There are few things in life more life affirming than the ceremony of eating a well made chorizo sandwich. Especially, when they are made as well as this. Their attention to detail whilst making this particular sandwich is what sets them apart. The “sandwichista” removed the chorizo and roasted red peppers from their bready womb and heated them through on the grill whilst warming the bread. This released the essential oils, so key, to the chorizo. Most other establishments would simply slam the sandwich on the grill and squash the living daylights out of it before serving you something that that looked like it has been steamrollered. Instead, here, they reassemble the sandwich and lob in some fresh rocket which is a welcome triumph over the wilted stuff you normally get.
The result of all this artisan craftsmanship was a sandwich that makes you feel glad to be alive. The hot chorizo seeped spicy oil that the peppers lapped up with glee. The rocket stayed alert and the bread was fluffy, elastic and warm.
Each bite got better. The last morsel was almost impossible to eat and we thought about ordering seconds, single handedly rewriting the law of diminishing returns. If, for some crazy reason, chorizo isn’t your thing, you’ll find it hard to resist the tempting charms of the rest of their range: copa, procuitto, mozzarella, aubergine, corned beef and cheddar - thankfully not all in the same sandwich.
We’re often asked what our favourite sandwich shop is, and it’s pretty hard to find one that’s better than Fernandez and Wells. They go the extra few millimeters where others just settle for good enough.
To read more about their "mountains of sandwiches" take a peak at their excellent website and also check out the reflections of Chris from Cheese and Biscuits and Kang from London Eater. We're annoyed for missing out on the pulled pork with apple sauce and are pining for a custard tart. But the fact that we are yearning for more is a sure sign that Fernandez and Wells is one of London's top stops for a designer sandwich.
43 Lexington Street
Last Updated 31 May 2010