Peckham Gets Yet Another Exceptional Restaurant

Aside, Peckham ★★★★★

Will Noble
By Will Noble Last edited 60 months ago

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Peckham Gets Yet Another Exceptional Restaurant Aside, Peckham 5

We bang on about Peckham so much these days, we're beginning to get on our own nerves. But if it will insist on spitting out exceptional foodie joints left, right and centre — well, we have little choice but to cover them. Poor us.

Hot on the heels of Coal Rooms comes Aside; a seasonal/local/organic effort, smuggled inconspicuously down a back street. Naturally, the Peckhamites have already caught on, plenty of them slurping back Victory Martinis as crisp as the decor (the olive, ingeniously a lemon-infused olive oil globule) and tucking into jigged squid with bergamot (sounds pretentious, tastes like inky heaven).

With its 6Music playlists, cutlery-stored-above-your-legs-tables, and boxes of organic veg on display by the entrance, Aside is the kind of place a traditionalist might roll their eyes at. Well sorry, but the truth is Aside has nailed it. The Sunday roast is something else, what with its charcoaly chicken, maple-glazed pasnips, a yolky explosion of a Yorkshire pud — which you can see coming from the other end of the room — and spot-on roasties (the secret? Salt is GOOD).

Desert is anything but an afterthought — the chocolate tart with Christmassy clementine demolished in approximately 90 seconds — and even the coffee (from Old Spike Roastery) seduces the taste buds with swarthy unctuousness, making you promise (almost out loud) that you'll come back to Aside soon.

Damn you Peckham, damn you to hell.

Aside, 56 Goldsmith Road, Peckham, SE15 5TF

Last Updated 20 February 2019