Food Review: Steaks And The City

The Trading House's building used to be the Bank of New Zealand, but now it's all pineapple-shaped lights, gilding and plant fronds everywhere — with a pianist doing Ed Sheeran covers in the corner for good measure.

Cocktails are just as flamboyant (and leaning towards stickily sweet), with tropical summer offerings including the new kiwi-based Velvet Green Martini. But the beer list's worth exploring - and long enough to keep you busy from starters to nightcap - running from standards through to specialist ale, flights and IPA-based cocktails.

Food bounces across pies, tapas, kebabs and charcuterie — but from the random sample we tried, it's doing several of those far better than you'd expect from such a long, sprawling menu. The Trading House might be trying to please everybody, but if you're in the market for decent beers, big slabs of garlic-buttered meat and perfectly-blackened jerk salmon kebabs, it'll probably succeed.

The Trading House, 89-91 Gresham Street, EC2V 7NQ.