Restaurant Review: This Meal Gets Zetter And Zetter

Club Zetter Wine Room & Kitchen ★★★★☆

Will Noble
By Will Noble Last edited 14 months ago
Restaurant Review: This Meal Gets Zetter And Zetter Club Zetter Wine Room & Kitchen 4
The steak. The mousse was too beautiful to photograph.

Let's start at the very end, a very good place to start. Though we don't have the sweetest tooth, Club Zetter's dark chocolate mousse — a dense cricket ball of a thing, flanked with pellets of boozy black cherries and vanilla ice cream — is one of the finest desserts we've had this year. Matched with a bone dry manzanilla, it's the perfect conclusion to a meal that gets better as it goes on.

While the sea bream tartare starter's tasty enough, it lacks zing, and the borage flowers add little but colour. The veloute's good too, but practically drowns the haddock (if it's possible to drown haddock). Things really pick up with the hereford rib eye — simple as you like, but cooked just how we like it, and sided with an unctuous bayonnaise that makes us go 'mmm' every time we dunk in a chip and eat it.

Our companion scoffs down his salt marsh lamb with glazed aubergine before anyone else has had a chance to taste it. Must be good — and his cheese platter (which we do get to taste) comes in surprisingly generous hunks. For us though, it's all about that ballsy mousse.

Club Zetter Wine Room & Kitchen, 86-88 Clerkenwell Road, Clerkenwell, EC1M 5RJ

Last Updated 28 September 2017