M Restaurant: A Tour Of The World In Six Steaks
High shine, high quality and high prices: M Restaurant on Threadneedle Street is doing the steakhouse experience in lavish, glossy style.
The steaks are hung in a glass-fronted gallery of a room at the back of the restaurant, the back and side walls made from bricks of Himalayan pink salt to dry-age the meat. The wine list is synced to the steaks, with both booze and beef sourced from the same six countries — USA, South Africa, France, Japan, Argentina and Australia. And the clientele are, as you'd expect from the location, Citified, with a fair number of the diners on a weekday evening suited, booted, and briefcased.
But there are some other tricks up M Restaurant's sleeve, as well. The upstairs bar, for a start, turning out good versions of the classics — cosy, dimly lit and feeling more date spot than corporate watering-hole. The fact that there's a decent seafood and vegetarian offering on the menu's also a nice surprise — look out for the pricey but decent red prawn carpaccio, and some good stuff happening to aubergine.
We'd find it hard to resist the lure of the steak menu completely here — but we like the way M Restaurant is more than a one-note City swagger steakhouse. Sure, you could come here for enormous portions of meat machismo, but it's equally good at cocktails, primped-up fish dishes and making the vegetarian options feel as eventful as the meat.
M Restaurant, Unit 2-3, 60 Threadneedle Street, EC2R 8HP.
Last Updated 29 October 2018