How To Eat, Drink And Smoke Like Winston Churchill

Will Noble
By Will Noble Last edited 19 months ago
How To Eat, Drink And Smoke Like Winston Churchill
Churchill celebrates his 69th birthday with a cake. And a smattering of reasonably relevant figures from 20th century history. Image courtesy of IWM.

Despite his penchant for food, liquor and cigars, Winston Churchill reached the ripe old age of 90. While we wouldn't suggest consuming the goodies listed in this article in one go, we reckon dabbling in the odd one or two should be fine. It's also an apt way of marking the 50th anniversary of the great man's death — which is tomorrow, 24 January.

Eat

One non-boozy liquid that Winston adored was soup. He'd eat a bowl of cold consommé before bed, even if he'd just returned from a slap-up dinner at The Savoy. Thin, non-creamy soups were what Churchill hankered after — and that applied to his turtle soup too. This, he once served up to President Roosevelt, after a Commander Thompson spotted a couple of tins in a Piccadilly grocers, and took the rare commodity back to Number 10. Turtle soup is even rarer in London these days (extinct, even), although the Museum of Brands in Notting Hill still stocks it:

Spot the difference

The corpulent PM would regularly round off dinner with a cheese platter. And there was one London fromagarie he regarded above all others: "A gentleman only buys his cheese at Paxton & Whitfield," said Churchill once. Fortunately for the gentlemen (and women) of today's London, Paxton & Whitfield is still in business. So when you go in, what should you order — a ballsy cheddar? A patriotic Red Leicester? Apparently not. Although you might think the flavour was a tad on the neutral side for Winston, we have it on good authority that his cheese of choice was a Swiss gruyère.

Churchill also adored his Indian curries (so there are plenty of places to commemorate him all across the capital). However, he wasn't keen on Chinese (sorry, Chinatown), or sauerkraut (apologies Herman ze German).

Dessert was never at the top of Churchill's gourmet agenda, but there was a notable exception in his 79th birthday cake, served up in the Cabinet Room. This was covered in edible sugar book spines, representing the many tomes he'd written when not busy with war duties. If you don't quite have those credentials, try baking a cake in the form of some of the recent books you've read. It's almost as good.

Drink

History is giddy with anecdotes of Churchill's drinking. You may think a man who started the day with a whisky or brandy must have been a raging lush — but Churchill's morning tipple was heavily diluted (you should still only attempt this if you're off work for the day), and many historians say he was rarely actually blotto.

That's not to say he didn't get through gallons of booze. According to historian Sir David Cannadine, Conservative politician and Chancellor of the Exchequer Rab Butler had no fewer than eight huge meals foisted on him at Downing Street during 1955, all washed down with libations of brandy. So much brandy, that Butler was forced to pour some of it down the sides of his shoes. Whether the dinner guest had to squelch his way out of Number 10, is not recorded.

David Cameron is not cool enough to do this. Photo courtesy of Pol Roger.

Champagne was Churchill's greatest weakness, or strength, as he liked to put it. "In success you deserve it and in defeat, you need it," he quipped. The champagne on Churchill's rider was a very specific one — Pol Roger — and Churchill tended to buy it from Berry Brother & Rudd on St James's Street, where you can still pick up a bottle today (the cheapest costs under £40).

As with cream soups, Churchill felt distinctly antagonistic toward anything vaguely resembling a cocktail. So he almost certainly wouldn't have approved of a cocktail crawl around Brixton. It's strange then, that to mark Churchill's 90th birthday, Joe Gilmore of the Savoy invented the Blenheim cocktail — a sickly sounding tincture, which you can still order there today.

Smoke

Winston fell in love with Havana cigars when he was a journalist in Cuba. Back in London, he eagerly put in his first order for imported Cubans at Robert Lewis on St James's Street. Nowadays, that shop is James J Fox — and that very same order can still be seen written in a big ledger, recently perused by Churchill's great grandson Jonathan Sandys.

Incidentally, as Nic Wing — editor and proprietor of UK Cigar Scene — writes: "This first delivery of cigars was made to the bachelor flat which he stayed in on his return from Cuba. It is above what, ironically enough, is now a cigar store; Sautter, in Mount Street, Mayfair."

So take your pick of Cubans from either Sautter or JJ Fox, then go and puff it on the new cigar terrace of the Churchill Hotel, Marble Arch, where you'll be accompanied by a statue of a young Winston.

Nic reckons that Churchill smoked in the region of 200,000 cigars in his lifetime. Although to be fair, he likely chewed his way through half of them. In fact, Churchill would usually slobber through just half a Cuban, before chucking it. If you want proof of how quickly he got through his smokes, check out the industrial sized ash tray we discovered next to his bed in the Churchill War Rooms.

Churchill's great grandson Jonathan Sandys examines his ancestor's cigar orders at JJ Fox. Photo by Nic Wing and Chris Osburn.

On the town

Hosting dinner parties was a forte of Churchill's that ranked alongside his diplomatic skills. But he liked to dine, drink and smoke out, too. The Savoy opened when Churchill was 24, and he was frequenting it soon after. As this video shows, he didn't stop frequenting it until close to his death. It was at The Savoy that Churchill, along with Lord Birkenhead, formed The Other Club — a political dining society where Winston would glug expensive brandy, shoot the breeze with his compatriots, and according to Cita Stelzer in Dinner With Churchill: Policy-Making at the Dinner Table — re-enact battles with salt and pepper shakers for hours at a time. You can still book the Other Club's hangout, the Pinafore Room, at The Savoy today. Although they probably won't let you muck about with the condiments.

Stelzer's book also includes some fascinating insight into how Churchill had no qualms questioning his bills. A 1934 correspondence between Churchill's private secretary and The Savoy begins with a letter that claims:

"Mr Churchill is surprised at the amount of this bill, which works out at almost £3 a head."

The overcharging is subsequently blamed on a bottle of port that was only half drunk, to which The Savoy replies that the remainder is:

"...being kept at the bar for Mr Churchill's use next time we are honoured with his patronage."

Sarcy gits.

Come here often? Photo by tezzer57, in the Londonist Flickr pool.

Among other Churchill haunts you can get to is Claridge's — room 212 of which he briefly declared Yugoslavian territory, so that Prince Alexander II could be born on his own country's soil. There's also Browns Hotel on Albemarle Street, which was frequented by the PM so often, it's rumoured they built a bomb shelter for him in there (although when Nic Wing checked with the concierge on Londonist's behalf, he couldn't confirm this). The bar here does a Churchill Martini (essentially a glass of gin). If you don't want to splash out at Browns, there are more frugal options at one of our recommended gin joints. Browns is also renowned for its afternoon teas, although Churchill himself thought that particular English tradition was an abomination.

Last Updated 08 April 2016

Michael

A very good read. Thank You. The introduction allows me to include it my curated content for Eat Local for Live Balance and Longevity: http://www.scoop.it/t/eat-and-...

John

Will - great piece! Always something to learn from the legendary Sir Winston, and we try to pay it forward everyday at http://www.cigaradvisor.com. Cheers!

Laurence Scales

There is an interview with his cook Mrs Landemare here http://www.bbc.co.uk/archive/c...

sylva portoian

My 14th poetry collection this year will "CHURCHILL at ARARAT" with at least 120 verses...
"Never be late for dinner, smoke Cuban cigars, and drink Armenian cognac."
Sir Winston Churchill

sylva portoian

Armenian ARARAT Soulful Brandy
{Called ‘Cognac’ in French}

ARMENIAN BRANDY,
Made from white grapes
With spiritual dancing crystal water
Like the soul of angelic people ––
Those who lost their kin ... ancient lands
Paintings ... bookshelves ... altars ... arts,
Living as orphans on many sand...s...

Yet ... They were able to breath again
Through their spirit ...
Through their faith
Despite being cent-less ... Yet rich
Gifting others with their artful hands...
What was seeded in their genes...

They planted grapes
Waiting to feed their beloved ––
And make many folk-men happy.
Giving them a little of “spiritual sins”
Relieving their writhes, their wraths
Despite being themselves in unsolvable despairs.

Those who could afford the drink
Loved and shared
Their Armenian ARARAT Brandy
Prepared from honest~cheerful~grapes...
Squeezed by limbs through decades
Irrigated by their tears...bleeding sweat...
Shared with sensuous qualities of
Gomidasian* chorus’ cadence
With sounds of dancing feet after
Marching on the rocky roads
Of flying folklores
Through Khachaturian Symphonies
Singing with starved voices
Asking justice...
For their grievous cause!

(C) Sylva Portoian, M.D, FRCP.CH
From my poetry collection "Churchill at Ararat" (2016)
___________________________________________________
*Gomidas~Komitas (1869-1935), Priest composer of Armenian classical music.
Having developed severe untreatable depression after witnessing Armenian genocide of 1915, he sighed in Paris.