New Restaurant Review: Brasa

Ben Norum
By Ben Norum Last edited 98 months ago
New Restaurant Review: Brasa

brasaroomresize.jpg The word brasa means ‘live coal’ and is a tantalising reference to the restaurant’s charcoal grill on which much of the food is cooked. Much like an M&S advert, though, this grill isn’t just any grill, it’s an authentic Asador grill brought from the Basque Mountains area of Spain. And neither is Brasa just any grill joint. It’s only seriously top-notch produce that gets slapped on the charcoal at this new Fulham venture, and most of it is British.

The kitchen is headed up by Danny MacGechan, who originally trained under Marco Pierre White and has until recently been head chef at the Paradise by way of Kensal Green gastropub, a much appreciated beacon in a gastronomically grey area. Relocating to trendier Fulham Broadway, MacGechan’s unique take on the grill format could be seen to merge his gastropub and finer dining days. At Brasa he serves up a selection of small and some larger plates, all ideal for sharing and brought to the table as they’re ready in tapas style, but focuses mainly on seasonal British food where it’s produce that is king.

Small plates include a subtly spiced and not too buttery potted rabbit; some delectable grilled oysters with samphire and shallot vinegar; and a smoked eel and potato salad. Small plates come in at around £7-8 and aren’t too tiny considering their name. Larger plates centre around hefty chunks of meat, with a selection of steaks, Herdwick lamb and other seasonally changing meats such as partridge. It’s here that the Asador grill really comes into its own, providing a light char and subtle smokiness that makes the beef in particular a stand-out. The steaks all come ready sliced for sharing in generous enough portions, though at over £20 a plate you do pay for the quality you’re getting.

With a genuinely exciting menu and the distraction of the grill visible through the large pass, it could be easy to overlook the bar, but it would be foolish to leave without having had a cocktail or two. In fact, you could do worse than going for just a cocktail or two. What is better described as an apothecaries’ lair than a bar sees more infused spirits than you could shake a rum sodden mint stalk at. If you’re anywhere near as impressionable as us, you’ll leave with grand ideas of infusing your own as well as little tipsy.

Brasa is tucked away above Broadway Bar & Grill (same owners, different kitchen) at 474-476 Fulham Broadway SW6 1BY (map), within stumbling distance of the tube. The website is yet to launch.

Last Updated 15 November 2010