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Situated on a quiet mews, with a warm wooden interior and plenty of nooks and crannies, the Dover Castle feels more like a country inn than a chain pub just five minutes walk from Oxford Circus. It's a Sam Smith's bar, which means the usual range of own-brand booze. But the company's other idiosyncrasy — an insistence for comfortable, homely interiors with no pumping music or screened sport — is most marked in this place.