You could be forgiven for thinking this rustic-looking pub beneath Highgate is more in the country than it is. A roaring fire greets wind-whipped walkers and their whippets who wander in from Hampstead Heath. Bovine heads stare down from the walls. They're a tiny bit off-putting to your vegetarian correspondent, but they do at least reflect the name of the pub.
This is very much a gastro place. Our 5pm visit found all but one of the tables laid out with cutlery and napkins, though you're quite welcome to just a drink. A dedicated dining room upstairs is even more like a restaurant. The pub made it into our list of London's best Sunday roasts, back in 2015.
The menu combines cheffy-sounding starters with truly hearty mains of well-cooked, well-sourced meat in hefty portions. We counted 13 different animal species on the list, though there were tempting veggie offerings, too.
The beer choice is reasonable, with three or four independent breweries on tap. As you'd expect, the wine list is superb, with almost 20 bottles each of red and white.
Last updated January 2018.
On Twitter as @TheBullandLast