Food Review: A Dose Of Sunshine In Southwark

Flat Iron Square just keeps getting better. Already an incubator for box-fresh streetfood businesses, the clump of railway arches and covered market are now attracting seriously good, permanent restaurants.

Among them, Lupins. Serving up small plates of what they call 'sunshine food', the snacks alone would be worth a visit: white bean and lemon crostini, and croquetas stuffed with ricotta and chilli, drizzled with honey. And that's just a precursor to a series of faultless dishes, bright with summery flavours. British and Mediterranean elements jostle to rich, lovely effect in the hake and 'nduja risotto, and the crab thermidor scattered with radish shavings is easily the best we've found in London.

Lupins: less take-a-chance-on-this-newcomer than grab-any-chance-you-get.

Lupins, 66 Union Street, SE1 1SG. Open for lunch and dinner Tuesday to Saturday, and just lunch Sunday to Monday