Duck Heart Teriyaki And Wasabi Crab: A Scandi Sushi Chain Lands In Victoria

A Danish export with five restaurants in London now, Sticks'n'Sushi is Asian-inspired rather than a straight-shooting sushi restaurant: a union of yakitori (aka ‘bits of meat on sticks’) and raw fish dishes, of Scandinavian cool and Japanese design notes. One of the reasons its fare is so damn good is the fact the group owns its own rice field in California. The Japanese are (understandably) reticent to export large quantities of their high grade rice, but these guys have their own supply.

The sushi, sashimi and nigiri we try are thick, silky and soft in all the right places. But there's none of the puritan, clean-eating vibe or crowd here: while it'd be absolutely possible to stay calorie-frugal and with a watchful eye on your carb intake, that'd be a sad way to treat a restaurant with crab croquettes this good — already beautifully meaty, they get an extra whoomph of heat and butteriness from wasabi caesar sauce. The yakitori menu features lots of things wrapped in bacon and slathered with herb butter: duck heart teriyaki skewers are tender, rich and something to convert an offal-sceptic.

And if you needed any more evidence that Sticks'n'Sushi's as good at indulgence as it is at simplicity, there's the dessert menu. We recommend the Marcel, a little pot of creamy chocolate cake topped with crunchy chocolate balls — but more than that, we love the way big, decadent group sharing is encouraged, via the option to order every one of the 12 small dessert pots (ranging from yuzu sorbet to creme brulee) as a taster platter for £30.

Good at sticks, good at sushi. Properly nailing group dining.

Sticks'n'Sushi, 3 Sir Milton Square, SW1E 5EB.