Food Review: Bar Boulud, Knightsbridge

Our meal begins, as perhaps every French one should, with escargots dripping in an unctuous, herby coulis. Beef tartar, spattered with a spicy dijon mustard sauce, means we're off to a bon start. For mains, Bar Boulud ups the mediterranean ante, adding fennel, cherry and al dente Carmargue rice (who knew France had its own paddy fields?) to olive-crusted lamb rump. And peach and rose harissa with grilled sea bass? If you've got a fruity enough palate, why not.

It's worth pointing out the guys eating posh burgers (one, with foie gras) next to us looked extremely happy with them too.

As is so often the case, dessert is the weak link; the tarte au citron crowned with meringue tastes like something you'd grab from the Sainsbury's bakery on a whim, and the baba au rhum could do the breaststroke in its own oversweet syrup. You'd let plenty of restaurants off for this, but you shouldn't have to at a Boulud.

Bar Boulud, 66 Knightsbridge, SW1X 7LA.