27 May 2017 | 14.9 °C

Where To Eat And Drink In... Covent Garden

Where To Eat And Drink In... Covent Garden
Covent Garden Market. Photo: Martin Pinker

We’re defining Covent Garden mostly as the WC2 postcode area, circled by Shaftesbury Avenue to the north, Endell Street to the east, Charing Cross Road, reaching as far as Leicester Square tube station, to the west and running along the Strand to the south.

Breakfast bites

The Dishoom empire is worth a morning visit for bacon and egg naans and chai-spiced hot drinks. Try the pretty powerful breakfast cocktails if you’re OK with writing off the rest of your day.

The steamed bao Sunday brunch at Flesh & Buns has just as much potential for being the end of accomplishing anything that day.

In a neighbourhood not well-served for traditional caffs and fry-ups, Star Café on Tower Street has become a breakfast institution. Avoid rush-hour times or be prepared to be in it for the long-haul – it’s loved by locals and has the waiting times to prove it. Fernando’s (55, St Martin’s Lane, WC2N 4EA) does a decent fry-up as well, from 7am.

A brace of buns at Flesh and Buns.

Lunchtime inspiration

Lunch on the run is easy to come by in this part of town. Benito’s Hat on New Row and Chipotle on St Martin’s Lane are both better than your average burrito.  

Jamaica Patty Co does salty, hot lunch dishes — ackee patties, saltfish fritters and Caribbean soups — along with Blue Mountain coffee.  

The enormous slices, or whole 22-inch pizzas, at Homeslice Pizza keep the small restaurant somewhere between buzzing and heaving, but if you're faced with an enormous queue, at least you don’t have far to go for other lunch options – Neal’s Yard crams a lot into a small footprint.

There’s a lot of specialist food on offer, from the seriously specific 26 Grains — Scandi-inspired twists on porridge — to the the raw and wholefood menu at Wild Food Café and the foraged food menu at Native.

The burritos at Chipotle are better than average (and huge).

Pubs, gastropubs and bars

This area is awash with bars, but with a fair number of tourist traps for every decent drinking spot. The Harp is popular for good reason, with a small, unpretentious bar that’s always packed on weekday evenings, as is The Salisbury.

Freud Café, despite the name, is more about the cocktails than the coffee — especially after dark, when crowds of people soften the concrete bunker feel of this basement space. The cocktail list is long, with decent prices for this part of town.

The Harp

Coffee shops

There are just as many chains as you’d expect in this part of London, but a surprising number of independents are still holding the fort too. Check out Timberyard and Bageriet for proof that London is still defying the march of the coffee conglomerate.

Sacred Café (Strand branch) is a good place for setting up for the afternoon, as the number of Macbooks and informal work meetings going on will testify. Alternatively, let yourself be led astray by a hazelnut gelato at Morelli’s ice-cream parlour — the espresso is good enough to justify a visit.   

Timber Yard.

Restaurant recommendations

The expensive and utterly weird L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon does high-end, flashy food in a scarlet and black setting, best described as Bordello-Luxe. If you have cash to burn and you're big into red leather, the tasting menus are worth a try.

Other crowd-pleasers with impressive settings are Tredwell’s — modern British, a perfect balance between high-design gastropub and fine dining — and Clos Maggiore, beloved for proposals and anniversaries because of the modern twists on French standards and the flower-covered conservatory.

Love a bit of leather? L' Atelier de Joel Robuchon is the restaurant for you.

For a less formal dinner, Rock and Sole Plaice – see what they did there? – has a loyal following with the after-work crowd, and a claim to being one of the oldest fish and chips restaurants in London. On the Bab specialises in stuffed, steamed buns and Korean meat dishes, while Condesa serves up Mexican tapas and mezcal – both good places for fast pre-theatre snacks.

Grab yourself some pinxtos. Photo: Rachel Lovinger under a Creative Commons license

Half bar, half restaurant, Pix Pintxos does both Basque bar snacks and wine with flair — order eight of the small, delicate meat skewers to one fearsome cocktail and you’ll be on pretty much the right ratio. The heavy Victoriana theme at Mr Fogg’s Tavern isn’t for everybody, but the pie menu is short, full of beef and more than worth the 19th century-isms.

Finally, British restaurant Rules is always a fine choice, dripping with old school charm. It's particularly famous for its game dishes during the season, and the cocktail bar upstairs is world class.  

Circus antics at Circus. Photo: Doug Fordoyce.

Something special

On the stranger end of special, the food at Circus — sushi, sashimi and Asian-influenced mains — comes with a side of cabaret, burlesque, and late-night DJ sets. Slide your wine to one side to make room for the fire-breather as he dances on your table.   

We've never met anyone that didn't love The Barbary in Neal’s Yard, where the open kitchen serves up North African small plates — think Berber-style spices, filo parcels and sticky meat dishes — in a relaxed, counter-seating space.   

Late night

Roadhouse has most of the characteristics of a dive bar in the American mould, except that rather than tiny, secretive and slightly grimy, it’s enormous and decidedly on the beaten track. Still slightly grimy though. For loud, late nights on sticky dance floors it’s open till 3am, six nights of the week.

For a pricier but quieter post-midnight drink Blind Spot is a Philippe Starck-designed bar (part of the St. Martin’s Lane Hotel), doing Manhattans and whisky in a speakeasy-style room till 1.30am most nights.

Last Updated 13 March 2017