Where To Find Traditional Easter Foods In London

What are you eating for Easter? In UK, this question is usually associated with Christmas. In many countries, however, Easter is equally important — if not more so — and specific foods, rich in history and symbolism, are associated with it. Here we tell you about several classic Easter foods from around the world and some of the delis, bakeries and restaurants you can buy them from.

UK

Simnel Cake

Dating back to the medieval era, this light fruitcake contains dried fruit, candied peel, lemon zest and spices. It’s covered with a layer of marzipan on top, and traditionally there’s one in the middle, too. Originally the cake was baked for Mother’s Day, but it’s now eaten during Easter. Since the late Victorian period, it’s been decorated with 11 or 12 marzipan balls, representing either the 12 apostles without Judas, or Jesus and the 11 apostles excluding Judas.

British deli Melrose and Morgan makes simnel cake from Shipton Mill organic flour. They cost £22.50 for 1.1 kg and £12.50 for 500g.

Italy

Colomba di Pasqua

Translating as ‘Easter dove’, this yeasted cake is so named as it’s shaped as a dove. First popularised by a baker from Milan, colomba is an Easter version of the Christmas panettone. Studded with candied peel, it’s topped with sugar nibs and almonds.

At Carluccio’s, it’s made with candied fruit and hazelnut icing. Each cake takes a total of 20 hours to make; and both the yeast and the cake dough are proved twice to ensure the correct flavour and texture. A small 300g cake costs £7.95, and colomba grande weighing 750g is £13.95.

The legendary Lina Stores sells different flavours such as almond, chocolate and plain, with or without candied fruit, in prices ranging from £8.95 to approximately £15. Terroni of Clerkenwell  also sells different varieties including vegetarian and chocolate in different sizes, priced from £5.95 to £9.95. Osteria Dell’Angolo sells it for £15.

Pastiera

This cake-tart from Naples is made from whole grains of wheat, ricotta, candied citrus peel, spices and, most importantly, moisture obtained from orange blossoms. It’s made in advance to allow the characteristic orange fragrance and flavour to develop.

Pastiera’s origins are romantically linked with pagan celebrations that marked the arrival of spring, but many believe a nun created it in a Neapolitan convent. She wanted the cake, a symbol of the Resurrection, to be perfumed with the flowers of the orange trees that grew in the convent’s gardens. Since then, there has been a long tradition of nuns making it for wealthy families at Easter.

At Osteria Dell’Angolo, the chef makes a rich cake to a special old recipe, and adds a little cinnamon. It can be bought in advance for £5.50 for a portion, or £16 for the whole cake. In the restaurant, it’s served with mandarin sorbet and orange-flavoured vincotto (concentrated grape must) to heighten the orange fragrance, which is a significant characteristic of pastiera.

Lina Stores’ cakes are made in-house by their chef, and their pastiera costs £2.50 per slice. Apulia restaurant has a chocolate version on the menu for £6; whereas Bocca Di Lupo’s cake features candied oranges (£5.50).

Torta Pasqualina

Dating back to the 16th century or even earlier, this Easter pie-cake from Genoa in Liguria is usually savoury (though sweet regional versions exist). It’s made from pastry sheets layered with fresh spring ingredients that grew in abundance in every Ligurian garden at the time: artichokes, peas, spring onions, nettles (nowadays chard is usually substituted), and local herbs like marjoram and borage.

Traditional cooks often like to show off their culinary skills by layering up 30 sheets of pastry to represent what’s believed to be 30 years of the life of Christ. A highlight of Easter Sunday lunch, it also contains whole eggs and ricotta, as eggs symbolise new life and they, along with cheese, were once only eaten on special occasions.

You can try this delicious dish at Bocca Di Lupo where it’s made from baby chard, spinach, sheep’s milk ricotta and quail eggs (£7.50 for small; £15 for large). It’s part of the restaurant’s excellent Easter menu that showcases traditional Easter dishes from different regions of Italy.

Casatiello

Cheese is used in the dough and filling of this savoury stuffed Neapolitan Easter bread, of which there are many variations. Shaped like a crown, the rising dough symbolises the growth of new life, and eggs mean rebirth. The casatiello at Lina Stores is stuffed with salami, and costs around £2.50 – £3.

Greece

Tsoureki

Originating in Western and Central Asia, this sweet, egg-rich bread is made from braided lengths of dough, and decorated with almonds or other nuts. There are many variations, including ones flavoured with mahlepi (ground cherry stones used as a spice), mastic (resin from trees grown on the Chios islands), vanilla or cardamom — or a mixture of all four. They often contain red Easter eggs or rosebuds, the colour representing the blood of Christ. ‘Tsoureki’ comes from an old word for ‘round’. Similar brioche-like breads are found in many European and Eastern European countries, including savoury versions. Children usually give them to their godparents at Easter.

You can buy tsoureki at many Greek delis, including The Life Goddess for £8, and Athenian Grocery which sells plain ones for £3.25 and ones containing eggs for £3.95.

Flaouna

Eaten by Orthodox Greeks in Cyprus to break the Lenten fast, this is a sesame-topped pastry that can be savoury, semi-sweet or sweet. Flaouna is filled with graviera, halloumi, mizithra or kefalotyri cheese (or a mixture), and sometimes contains raisins or sultanas. It’s made on Good Friday, to be eaten on Easter Sunday, and replaces regular bread. Athenian Grocery sells ones with a touch of mint and mastic, with or without raisins, for £3.25.

Spain

Torrijas

Similar to French toast, this is a dessert that’s typically eaten during the Lent period up to Easter Saturday. It’s made by soaking bread slices in milk or wine with honey and spices, then dipping them into beaten egg and frying them in olive oil.

Served with ice cream, they’re on the dessert menu of all four Brindisa Tapas Kitchen restaurants  until Easter for £4.75. You can also sample them at Boqueria in Clapham for £5.

Portugal

Ninho de Pascoa

Meaning ‘Easter’s nest’, ninho is a chocolate-covered yellow cake with a hole in its centre. This is filled with egg strands made from yolks to give a bird’s nest effect, into which Easter eggs and sugared almonds are placed. Buy it at the renowned Lisboa Patisserie (57 Golborne Road, W10 5NR), or Sintra Delicatessen (146-148 Stockwell Road, SW9 9TQ). Ferreira Delicatessen (40 Delancey Street, NW1 7RY) sells different varieties, including ultra-eggy and chocolate.

Folar de Pascoa

Sweet and savoury regional variations abound for this yeasted bread, in which lengths of dough are arranged on top to resemble a bird’s nest concealing Easter eggs. Sweet folares are flavoured with lemon peel, anise seed and cinnamon; and savoury ones may be stuffed with ham, pork, or smoked pork sausages.  The eggs can be plain or coloured, and symbolise Resurrection and rebirth. In a gesture that resembles the sharing of bread at the Last Supper, folares are given to priests and to one’s godfather at Easter. You can buy them at Lisboa, Sintra and Ferreira (details above).

Lampreia de ovos

This is an unusual almond-flavoured flan-cake, shaped like a lamprey (eel). The lamprey has glace cherries for red eyes, and is assembled on egg strands. It’s available to buy from Lisboa Patisserie (details above).

Poland

Barszcz Bialy

Traditionally served in an edible, hollowed-out bread bowl, this Polish white borscht is made from a base of fermented wheat. It contains fresh white pork sausages (biala kielbasa); and diced rye bread, chopped hard-boiled eggs and horseradish are often added to it. The sour taste that’s characteristic of the soup can take between three to seven days to achieve. You can buy ready-soured barszcz in jars (49p) and sachets (59p) from Polish Delicatessen, which has several branches around west London (including at 362 Uxbridge Road, W12 7LL).

Babka

This sweet, yeasted brioche-like cake is glazed with vanilla or chocolate icing, decorated with almonds or candied fruit, and sometimes flavoured with rum. Its raised shape signifies the rising of Christ. It’s popular throughout Eastern Europe, and is baked for Easter Sunday. Babka means ‘grandmother’ — and indeed there are ridges on the side of the cake that resemble a skirt’s pleats. You can buy it at Polish Delicatessen (as above) for £3.19. Prima (as above) sells lots of different varieties for £2.20.

Makowiec

This poppy seed pastry, in which the pastry is rolled with the seeds to give a swiss roll effect, is traditionally eaten at Easter. Polish Delicatessen (as above) sells it for £3.69, and Prima (as above) for £3.50.

Mazurek

Originating in central Poland, this pastry-cake is flat, rectangular, golden brown and very sweet. Eaten as a treat after the 40-day Lent fast, it’s made from a shortcrust base and has a distinctive walnutty flavour. It’s thickly slathered with chocolate icing, and extravagantly decorated with dried fruit, nuts and seeds. It’s sometimes served as part of a meal with 12 offerings to symbolise the 12 apostles — and occasionally, 12 different mazureks make up the entire 12-item feast.

Polish Delicatessen (as above) sells mazurek decorated with typical Easter features such as ducks, eggs and yellow flowers for £3.99; and Prima (as above) sells different flavoured ones such as poppy seed and almond for £4.50.

Russia

Kulich

Similar in looks and taste to the Italian panettone, kulich is an Easter cake that’s eaten by Orthodox Christians in Russia and other East European countries. It’s tall and cylindrical, and often contains raisins and dried fruit. Topped with white icing, it’s decorated with fresh flowers, sweets or glace cherries, and often marked with ‘XB’, which denotes ‘Christ Is Risen’.

The cake is traditionally placed in a basket with fresh flowers and taken to the Easter Sunday church service to be blessed by the priest. The blessed kulich is eaten before breakfast until Pentecost (which is on 8 June this year); one that is not blessed is eaten for dessert. Dacha Delicatessen sells it in different sizes (£5.60-£6.99).

India

Pork Vindaloo

Forget the lame ‘curry house’ versions, this Portuguese-influenced Goan pork curry is a special occasion spicy-sour dish jazzed up with red chillies. The addition of palm vinegar acts as a preservative, enabling the dish to last throughout the holiday period.

Bebinca

Another Portuguese-influenced Goan dish, this special-occasion dessert is traditionally made by layering up 7 to 16 coconut pancakes and garnishing them with almonds.

You’ll find vindaloo and bebinca as part of the Easter Sunday jazz brunch at La Porte Des Indes. Costing £35 per person, the buffet features over 20 dishes.

Appam and stew

Appams are South Indian savoury pancakes made from a batter of rice flour, white urid lentils, coconut milk and spices. They’re eaten by Syrian Christians in Kerala during Easter with lamb or chicken ‘stew’, a mildly spiced, coconut milk-based curry.

Pal Payasam

A festive favourite throughout south India, this rice pudding is eaten by Keralan Christians at Easter. It’s traditionally made from coconut milk and jaggery (a type of palm or cane sugar), and often flavoured with saffron, cardamom, almonds and other nuts.

You can enjoy appam, lamb and chicken stews, and pal payasam at Rasa Travancore. Lamb stew and pal payasam also form part of La Porte Des Indes Easter brunch, as detailed above.

Which other traditional Easter specialities do you buy or make? Tell us in the comments section below.

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sejal

Article by Sejal Sukhadwala | 60 Articles | View Profile

  • aisha

    You
    missed out the wonderfully aromatic & deliciously yeast based spiced
    Caribbean Easter bun, eaten with cheese, usually awful processed stuff. We
    also have loads of fresh fish, fried dry and then steeped overnight in a pickle
    mixture of Caribbean herbs and vegetables, this is eaten with cassava bread,
    known as bammy, or hard-dough bread and a large ripe avocado pear (not those
    small bullet ones that never ripen) Feeling quite homesick now.

    • Sejal

      That’s interesting. In fact, in my original piece, I’d included a Caribbean section and had mentioned drop buns eaten with cheese, as well as duck bread. However, as First Choice bakery in Brixton, where these two items are available for Easter, were asking for advance orders before 14 April, and as my article was already too long, I removed it.

  • hostile_17

    I’m an atheist so won’t eat anything special for either.
    I can make an exception for Creme Eggs though.

    • Sejal

      I’m an atheist too – but any excuse for cake.

  • Dave

    Contact details for Prima delicatessen are missing.

    • Sejal

      Ah yes, well spotted – and sorry about that! I’d included them in the section on ‘barszcz bialy’, but when the original article was too long, I removed several paragraphs and sentences including, by mistake, Prima’s contact details. There’s no website, but Prima is at 192 North End Road, W14 9NX. Tel: 020 7385 2070.