It'll probably end up bankrupting the NHS, but hamburger revivalism has been in vogue these past years, with street food trucks and pop-up restaurants across the capital taking stabs at the best burger.
East London stalwarts Lucky Chip, who'll be familiar to London Fields regulars for the queue of ravenous foodies that tends to form at their Netil Market burger van each weekend, are the latest to bring their patty prowess to Soho. They've ensconced themselves in the kitchen of The Player, a subterranean cocktail lounge on Broadwick Street, to bring the media-wonk masses what Hackney types have long enjoyed. After opening earlier in the year, the Slider Bar, as it has been dubbed, recently extended its opening hours to cater for lunch, so we went for a visit.
For those unfamiliar with Brooklyn argot, the slider is basically a miniature hamburger, and it has stealthily inched its way, seed by sesame seed, onto London menus in recent years, perhaps most successfully at Sputino. At Slider Bar, ten quid will get you a couple of sliders plus fries on the side. We sampled the Royale wit' Cheese, and the El Chappo. Both were excellent, the latter in particular, a heady, oozing melange of burger meat, bacon, blue cheese, jalapeños and a handful of humble spinach leaves to inch you a fraction of the way toward that five-a-day habit.
There's also a cocktail menu, one that we manfully avoided, but perhaps tempting enough to make one consider if this is really an ideal lunch spot. Then again, this is Soho, where dypsomania is often a requirement for constructive career advancement.
Lunch for one, with a soft drink, came to around £14 including service.
Lucky Chip @ The Player is located at 8 Broadwick Street, W1F 8HN.