While many designers have played safe this year, the latest collection from Jacob Kimmie, Martyr, follows on from his bold autumn show with “a protest against the mainstream” and “radical fashion from an intellectual standpoint”. This is usually fashion industry rhetoric for using plus-size models or futuristic accessories but Kimmie delivers with a brave and relevant statement which echoes international political instability.
Held in the vestibule of the Freemasons’ Hall as part of Vauxhall Fashion Scout, Kimmie made inventive use of the large area. Aboard a pair of sugarcube podiums, two waxed hunks called Sebastian and Bach (yes) reclined in cotton tuile togas and not much else. Models approached the photographers sometimes stopping (sometimes not) before sauntering back.
The collection is an ambitious melange of sassy street chic, diaphanous veils, hijabs and barbed wire motifs. Kimmie retains his trademark colouring with multi-ethnic models parading a range of monochromatic clothing. His plainer pieces – for example, the male model with the white trousers and body-length veil – provide a good contrast to the black and white print dresses and the more martial outfits.
All photos (c) Lisa Thomson.